Hard Rock
Great British rock climbs from VS to E4
Vertebrate Publishing Ltd
Published on 19. March 2020
Book
Hardback
256 pages
978-1-912560-29-5 (ISBN)
Description
Hard Rock is the best of British rock climbing.
Featuring over fifty crags and sixty-nine routes in England, Scotland and Wales, it epitomises all that is great about traditional climbing in Great Britain.
Ken Wilson's first edition of Hard Rock was published in 1974 and quickly established itself as the definitive representation of British rock climbing. Ken's vision for the book's format - part guidebook, part literary celebration and part coffee table visual showcase - is one that has been much copied but never equalled.
In this new edition, editor Ian Parnell has ensured Hard Rock continues to honour Ken's original concept, in particular keeping the route, not the climber, centre stage. While the activity of climbing has undergone myriad changes since 1974 - sticky rubber, camming devices, and the rise of sport climbing and indoor climbing walls - many climbers are still drawn to the drama and challenge of traditionally protected climbing. And this is why Hard Rock is still as relevant now as it was in 1974.
Stretching across the Scottish Highlands and Islands, the Lake District, the Pennines and the Peak District, North and South Wales and down to South-West England, the routes tackle big mountain walls, gritstone outcrops and epic sea cliff adventures. Focusing on the trad connoisseur's grade range of VS to E2, with additional routes at E3 and E4, the featured climbs are within reach of a majority of climbers. Timeless classics include The Bat on Ben Nevis, the Old Man of Hoy, the Central Buttress of Scafell, Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass, Vector at Tremadog, Right Unconquerable at Stanage Edge and Suicide Wall at Bosigran on the Cornish coast.
Alongside many of the original essays, written by a formidable cast of climbers including Pete Crew, Ed Drummond, Royal Robbins, Chris Bonington, Hamish MacInnes and Al Alvarez, this new edition features thirteen new routes and pieces by Eleanor Fuller, Stephen Reid, Kevin Howett, David Pickford, Paul Harrison, John Lawrence Holden, Martin Moran, Paul Donnithorne and Emma Alsford. It is illustrated with all-new colour photography throughout.
Hard Rock's timeless collection is sure to inspire for generations to come.
Featuring over fifty crags and sixty-nine routes in England, Scotland and Wales, it epitomises all that is great about traditional climbing in Great Britain.
Ken Wilson's first edition of Hard Rock was published in 1974 and quickly established itself as the definitive representation of British rock climbing. Ken's vision for the book's format - part guidebook, part literary celebration and part coffee table visual showcase - is one that has been much copied but never equalled.
In this new edition, editor Ian Parnell has ensured Hard Rock continues to honour Ken's original concept, in particular keeping the route, not the climber, centre stage. While the activity of climbing has undergone myriad changes since 1974 - sticky rubber, camming devices, and the rise of sport climbing and indoor climbing walls - many climbers are still drawn to the drama and challenge of traditionally protected climbing. And this is why Hard Rock is still as relevant now as it was in 1974.
Stretching across the Scottish Highlands and Islands, the Lake District, the Pennines and the Peak District, North and South Wales and down to South-West England, the routes tackle big mountain walls, gritstone outcrops and epic sea cliff adventures. Focusing on the trad connoisseur's grade range of VS to E2, with additional routes at E3 and E4, the featured climbs are within reach of a majority of climbers. Timeless classics include The Bat on Ben Nevis, the Old Man of Hoy, the Central Buttress of Scafell, Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass, Vector at Tremadog, Right Unconquerable at Stanage Edge and Suicide Wall at Bosigran on the Cornish coast.
Alongside many of the original essays, written by a formidable cast of climbers including Pete Crew, Ed Drummond, Royal Robbins, Chris Bonington, Hamish MacInnes and Al Alvarez, this new edition features thirteen new routes and pieces by Eleanor Fuller, Stephen Reid, Kevin Howett, David Pickford, Paul Harrison, John Lawrence Holden, Martin Moran, Paul Donnithorne and Emma Alsford. It is illustrated with all-new colour photography throughout.
Hard Rock's timeless collection is sure to inspire for generations to come.
More details
Edition
New edition
Language
English
Place of publication
United Kingdom
Edition type
New edition
Illustrations
Overview map; Colour photographs
Dimensions
Height: 313 mm
Width: 240 mm
Thickness: 22 mm
Weight
1658 gr
ISBN-13
978-1-912560-29-5 (9781912560295)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Classification
Person
Ian Parnell has put climbing at the heart of his life for over thirty-five years. From a misguided start attempting routes without a rope with his sister at Symonds Yat, Ian's fascination with exploration has led him to establish new routes on the coastal cliffs of South West England and winter ascents across Scotland, including the first winter ascent of Sioux Wall on Ben Nevis. A renowned alpinist, his first ascents in the high Himalaya include the coveted South-West ridge of Annapurna III with Kenton Cool and John Varco in 2003. His wider climbing career has been equally diverse and includes the organisation of a Climbing World Championships, filming Sir Ranulph Fiennes on the North Face of the Eiger for ITN News and editing Climb magazine. These days he enjoys classic routes closer to his home in Sheffield, and taking his two daughters scrambling in the Peak District.
Content
Preface
The Development of Hard Rock Climbing in Britain by Ken Wilson
Scotland
1 Dragon and Gob, Carnmore Crag, Wester Ross by Paddy Buckley
2 The Needle, Shelter Stone Crag, Cairngorms by Ian Rowe
3 King Rat and Goliath, Creag an Dubh-loch, Cairngorms by Greg Strange
4 Angel Face, Beinn Eighe by Martin Moran
5 Swastika Trilleachan Slabs, Glen Etive by Robin Campbell
6 Shibboleth, Buachaille Etive Mor by Martin Boysen
7 Raven's Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor by Hamish MacInnes
8 Carnivore, Creag a' Bhancair by Jimmy Marshall
9 Yo-Yo, Aonach Dubh by John Porteous
10 Trapeze, Aonach Dubh by Allen Fyffe
11 Centurion, Ben Nevis by Robin Campbell
12 The Bat, Ben Nevis by Paul Nunn
Scottish Islands
13 The Old Man of Hoy, Orkney Islands by Chris Bonington
14 The Great Prow, Isle of Skye by Phil Gribbon
15 Vulcan Wall, Isle of Skye, by Kevin Howett
16 Prophecy of Drowning, Pabbay by Eleanor Fuller
17 South Ridge Direct, Isle of Arran by Ian Rowe
The Lake District
18 Central Buttress, Scafell by Geoff Oliver
19 Ichabod, Scafell by Allan Austin
20 Central Pillar, Esk Buttress by Paul Nunn
21 Gormenghast, Heron Crag by Colin Taylor
22 Engineer's Slabs, Gable Crag by Paul Nunn
23 Praying Mantis, Goat Crag by Ian Roper
24 Totalitarian, Raven Crag by Stephen Reid
25 Extol, Dove Crag by Chris Bonington
26 Nimrod, Dow Crag by John Lawrence Holden
27 The Crack, Gimmer Crag by Ken Wilson
28 Kipling Groove, Gimmer Crag by Mick Burke
North Wales
29 Mousetrap, Anglesey by Nick Escourt
30 Gogarth, Craig Gogarth by Ian McNaught-Davis
31 Big Groove, Craig Gogarth by Richard Isherwood
32 A Dream of White Horses, North Stack by Royal Robbins
33 The Grooves, Cyrn Las by Jim Perrin
34 Diagonal, Dinas Mot by Brian Wyvill
35 Cenotaph Corner, Dinas Cromlech by Peter Crew
36 Great Slab/Bow-Shaped Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Peter Crew
37 Great Wall, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Ed Drummond
38 White Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Peter Crew
39 Slanting Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Dave Cook
40 Vember, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Tony Smythe
41 Dwm Castell, Cidwm by Richard Isherwood
42 Vector, Tremadog Rocks by Jim Perrin
43 The Groove, Llech Ddu by Les Holliwell
South Wales
44 Heart of Darkness, New Morning and Plane Sailing, Mowing Word/Stackpole, Pembroke by Emma Alsford
45 Rock Idol and Zeppelin, Mother Carey's Kitchen, Pembroke by Paul Donnithorne
Pennine and Peak
46 North-West Girdle, Almscliff Crag by Dave Cook
47 Carnage, Malham Cove by John Porter
48 Right Unconquerable, Stanage Edge by Jim Perrin
49 Valkyrie, Froggatt Edge by Nat Allen
50 Elder Crack, Curbar Edge by Geoff Birtles
51 Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe Tor by Paul Nunn
52 Alcasan Stoney Middleton Dale by Paul Nunn
53 Chee Tor Girdle Cheedale by Nat Allen
54 Sirplum Cheedale by Paul Nunn
55 Debauchery High Tor by Nat Allen
South-West England
56 Malbogies, Avon Gorge by Mike Thompson
57 Coronation Street, Cheddar Gorge by Jim Perrin
58. Double Diamond and Quatermass, Lundy by Paul Harrison
59 Mars and Soul Sacrifice, Swanage by David Pickford
60 Moonraker, Berry Head by Al Alvarez
61 Bishop's Rib, Chair Ladder by Pat Littlejohn
62 Suicide Wall and Bow Wall, Bosigran by Frank Cannings
Grades
Scoop and Main Overhang
Acknowledgements
Index
The Development of Hard Rock Climbing in Britain by Ken Wilson
Scotland
1 Dragon and Gob, Carnmore Crag, Wester Ross by Paddy Buckley
2 The Needle, Shelter Stone Crag, Cairngorms by Ian Rowe
3 King Rat and Goliath, Creag an Dubh-loch, Cairngorms by Greg Strange
4 Angel Face, Beinn Eighe by Martin Moran
5 Swastika Trilleachan Slabs, Glen Etive by Robin Campbell
6 Shibboleth, Buachaille Etive Mor by Martin Boysen
7 Raven's Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor by Hamish MacInnes
8 Carnivore, Creag a' Bhancair by Jimmy Marshall
9 Yo-Yo, Aonach Dubh by John Porteous
10 Trapeze, Aonach Dubh by Allen Fyffe
11 Centurion, Ben Nevis by Robin Campbell
12 The Bat, Ben Nevis by Paul Nunn
Scottish Islands
13 The Old Man of Hoy, Orkney Islands by Chris Bonington
14 The Great Prow, Isle of Skye by Phil Gribbon
15 Vulcan Wall, Isle of Skye, by Kevin Howett
16 Prophecy of Drowning, Pabbay by Eleanor Fuller
17 South Ridge Direct, Isle of Arran by Ian Rowe
The Lake District
18 Central Buttress, Scafell by Geoff Oliver
19 Ichabod, Scafell by Allan Austin
20 Central Pillar, Esk Buttress by Paul Nunn
21 Gormenghast, Heron Crag by Colin Taylor
22 Engineer's Slabs, Gable Crag by Paul Nunn
23 Praying Mantis, Goat Crag by Ian Roper
24 Totalitarian, Raven Crag by Stephen Reid
25 Extol, Dove Crag by Chris Bonington
26 Nimrod, Dow Crag by John Lawrence Holden
27 The Crack, Gimmer Crag by Ken Wilson
28 Kipling Groove, Gimmer Crag by Mick Burke
North Wales
29 Mousetrap, Anglesey by Nick Escourt
30 Gogarth, Craig Gogarth by Ian McNaught-Davis
31 Big Groove, Craig Gogarth by Richard Isherwood
32 A Dream of White Horses, North Stack by Royal Robbins
33 The Grooves, Cyrn Las by Jim Perrin
34 Diagonal, Dinas Mot by Brian Wyvill
35 Cenotaph Corner, Dinas Cromlech by Peter Crew
36 Great Slab/Bow-Shaped Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Peter Crew
37 Great Wall, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Ed Drummond
38 White Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Peter Crew
39 Slanting Slab, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Dave Cook
40 Vember, Clogwyn du'r Arddu by Tony Smythe
41 Dwm Castell, Cidwm by Richard Isherwood
42 Vector, Tremadog Rocks by Jim Perrin
43 The Groove, Llech Ddu by Les Holliwell
South Wales
44 Heart of Darkness, New Morning and Plane Sailing, Mowing Word/Stackpole, Pembroke by Emma Alsford
45 Rock Idol and Zeppelin, Mother Carey's Kitchen, Pembroke by Paul Donnithorne
Pennine and Peak
46 North-West Girdle, Almscliff Crag by Dave Cook
47 Carnage, Malham Cove by John Porter
48 Right Unconquerable, Stanage Edge by Jim Perrin
49 Valkyrie, Froggatt Edge by Nat Allen
50 Elder Crack, Curbar Edge by Geoff Birtles
51 Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe Tor by Paul Nunn
52 Alcasan Stoney Middleton Dale by Paul Nunn
53 Chee Tor Girdle Cheedale by Nat Allen
54 Sirplum Cheedale by Paul Nunn
55 Debauchery High Tor by Nat Allen
South-West England
56 Malbogies, Avon Gorge by Mike Thompson
57 Coronation Street, Cheddar Gorge by Jim Perrin
58. Double Diamond and Quatermass, Lundy by Paul Harrison
59 Mars and Soul Sacrifice, Swanage by David Pickford
60 Moonraker, Berry Head by Al Alvarez
61 Bishop's Rib, Chair Ladder by Pat Littlejohn
62 Suicide Wall and Bow Wall, Bosigran by Frank Cannings
Grades
Scoop and Main Overhang
Acknowledgements
Index