Time in Fashion
Industrial, Antilinear and Uchronic Temporalities
Published on 6. August 2020
Book
Hardback
200 pages
978-1-350-14694-5 (ISBN)
Description
Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?'
Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.
Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.
Reviews / Votes
Evans and Vaccari's commitment to brevity and specificity is this greatest asset. Time In Fashion includes so many angles and writers and perspectives that any reader, whether seasoned in the field or not, will come away with myriad more questions about the field of dress history. This book will have given them multiple starting points from which to begin their inquiries and will serve any reader as a useful catalyst for their curiosity. * The Journal of Dress History * An astute and generous contribution to the field, this thoughtful and highly readable collection promises to generate much exciting work around fashion's chronologies in the years to come. * Christopher Breward, Director, National Museums Scotland, UK * A fascinating anthology that will inspire both fashion creatives and fashion scholars. * Valerie Steele, Director, Museum at FIT, New York, USA * In this ground-breaking study, Evans and Vaccari open a new era in our understanding of the subject with a forensic analysis of its complexities in their introduction, backed up by a dazzling range of essays and extracts from past and contemporary writers. * Elizabeth Wilson, author of Adorned in Dreams * Offering invaluable insights into fashion's complex relationship to time, the diversity and quality of the contributions make this anthology a gratifying read and an essential reference for anyone seeking deeper understanding of fashion. * Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA *More details
Language
English
Place of publication
London
United Kingdom
Publishing group
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Target group
College/higher education
Illustrations
5 bw illus
Dimensions
Height: 236 mm
Width: 162 mm
Thickness: 16 mm
Weight
480 gr
ISBN-13
978-1-350-14694-5 (9781350146945)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Classification
Persons
Caroline Evans is Professor Emerita of Fashion History and Theory at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK.
Alessandra Vaccari is Associate Professor of Fashion History and Theory at Universita Iuav di Venezia, Italy.
Alessandra Vaccari is Associate Professor of Fashion History and Theory at Universita Iuav di Venezia, Italy.
Content
List of Figures
Acknowledgements
Time in Fashion: An Introductory Essay - Caroline Evans and Alessandra Vaccari
Section I: Industrial Time
1. The Murderous, Meaningless Caprices of Fashion - Karl Marx
2. The Acceleration of Fashion Change in the 18th Century - Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
3. The Temporal Architecture of Fashion: Its Seasons and Weeks - Aurelie van de Peer
4. Threadbare Dandy Fashion - Jules Barbey-d'Aurevilly
5. The Pace of Fashion - Georg Simmel
6. My Best Work is Done Only When I am Under Pressure - Mary Quant
7. We're Stuck Between the Old and the New Rhythm - Christophe Lemaire
8. New Fashion Media and the Acceleration of Fashion Time - Agnes Rocamora
9. Standard Minute Value (SMV) for a T-Shirt - Ramij Howlader, Monirul Islam (Rajib), Tanjibul Hasan Sajib, Ripon Kumar Prasad
10. Fashion, Fast and Slow - Kate Fletcher
11. Subverting the Seasonal Construct - Samuel Patrick Thomas
Section II: Antilinear Time
12. Jetztzeit and the Tiger's Leap - Walter Benjamin
13. Illusion Tulle and La Derniere Mode - Stephane Mallarme
14. The Evaporation of Temporality - Ulrich Lehmann
15. Fashion, Femininity and Modernity - Ilya Parkins
16. The Residue that History has Discharged - Siegfried Kracauer
17. Colonial Time - Victoria L. Rovine
18. The Historical Mode - Richard Martin and Harold Koda
19. Cuttings and Pastings in the Archive - Alistair O'Neill
20. Martin Magiela's Carnivalized Time - Francesca Granata
21. Quotations: The Past and Future of Fashion - Angelo Flaccavento
22. Vintage Fashion and Memory - Heike Jenss
Section III: Uchronic Time
23. Fashion, A Time Which Does Not Exist - Roland Barthes
24. Sovereign Time - Patrizia Calefato
25. The Art of the Perfect Moment - Barbara Vinken
26. Fashion is Now and Tomorrow - Karl Lagerfeld
27. Made in Italy and Double Vintage - Simona Segre Reinach
28. Final Adjudication on Two National Press Advertisements for Louis Vuitton - Advertising Standards Authority
29. I Have Seen Her in the Mirror - Elsa Schiaparelli
30. Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada: Impossible Conversations - Miuccia Prada
31. Doppie Pagine - Anna Piaggi
32. The Otherworldly - Greg French
33. Fashion Fabulation: Serpica Naro at Milan Fashion Week 2005 - Ilaria Vanni
34. Queer Time - Emma Katherine Atwood
35. Miss Haversham - Charles Dickens
36. The Simultaneous Dress - Paola Colaiacomo
Bibliography
Index
Acknowledgements
Time in Fashion: An Introductory Essay - Caroline Evans and Alessandra Vaccari
Section I: Industrial Time
1. The Murderous, Meaningless Caprices of Fashion - Karl Marx
2. The Acceleration of Fashion Change in the 18th Century - Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
3. The Temporal Architecture of Fashion: Its Seasons and Weeks - Aurelie van de Peer
4. Threadbare Dandy Fashion - Jules Barbey-d'Aurevilly
5. The Pace of Fashion - Georg Simmel
6. My Best Work is Done Only When I am Under Pressure - Mary Quant
7. We're Stuck Between the Old and the New Rhythm - Christophe Lemaire
8. New Fashion Media and the Acceleration of Fashion Time - Agnes Rocamora
9. Standard Minute Value (SMV) for a T-Shirt - Ramij Howlader, Monirul Islam (Rajib), Tanjibul Hasan Sajib, Ripon Kumar Prasad
10. Fashion, Fast and Slow - Kate Fletcher
11. Subverting the Seasonal Construct - Samuel Patrick Thomas
Section II: Antilinear Time
12. Jetztzeit and the Tiger's Leap - Walter Benjamin
13. Illusion Tulle and La Derniere Mode - Stephane Mallarme
14. The Evaporation of Temporality - Ulrich Lehmann
15. Fashion, Femininity and Modernity - Ilya Parkins
16. The Residue that History has Discharged - Siegfried Kracauer
17. Colonial Time - Victoria L. Rovine
18. The Historical Mode - Richard Martin and Harold Koda
19. Cuttings and Pastings in the Archive - Alistair O'Neill
20. Martin Magiela's Carnivalized Time - Francesca Granata
21. Quotations: The Past and Future of Fashion - Angelo Flaccavento
22. Vintage Fashion and Memory - Heike Jenss
Section III: Uchronic Time
23. Fashion, A Time Which Does Not Exist - Roland Barthes
24. Sovereign Time - Patrizia Calefato
25. The Art of the Perfect Moment - Barbara Vinken
26. Fashion is Now and Tomorrow - Karl Lagerfeld
27. Made in Italy and Double Vintage - Simona Segre Reinach
28. Final Adjudication on Two National Press Advertisements for Louis Vuitton - Advertising Standards Authority
29. I Have Seen Her in the Mirror - Elsa Schiaparelli
30. Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada: Impossible Conversations - Miuccia Prada
31. Doppie Pagine - Anna Piaggi
32. The Otherworldly - Greg French
33. Fashion Fabulation: Serpica Naro at Milan Fashion Week 2005 - Ilaria Vanni
34. Queer Time - Emma Katherine Atwood
35. Miss Haversham - Charles Dickens
36. The Simultaneous Dress - Paola Colaiacomo
Bibliography
Index