
Plus-size Patternmaking for Womenswear
Inclusive Sizing, Pattern Drafting, and Fitting
Bloomsbury Visual Arts (Publisher)
Published on 19. February 2026
Book
Paperback/Softback
416 pages
978-1-350-36017-4 (ISBN)
Description
An essential guide to patternmaking for plus-size fashion, and the specialized skills, shapes, and techniques required to achieve a great fit and make beautiful clothing that truly understands plus-size bodies.
Featuring all the major block types for contemporary apparel - from fitted bodices to T-shirts, sleeve variations to swimwear - and packed with clear illustrations and step-by-step guidance, Brown and Kelleher guide you through:
- drafting a complete set of plus-size blocks suitable for use with models and clients
- industry plus-size fit forms
- adapting existing designs for plus sizes
- practical skills for respectful measuring, fitting, and working with larger bodies.
Covering every step of the pattern-drafting process, from developing a size chart, to considering mobility and wearing ease, to adapting smaller dress forms for use with plus-sizes, Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear is an essential textbook for all modern fashion and apparel students.
Online resources available for download:
- Instructor resources, including class presentation slides
- Sample size charts, blank size chart templates, and ease chart
- Instructions for calculating required measurements for block drafting section
- Standard measurements used in block drafting
- A collection of plus size croquis in different sizes and poses
Featuring all the major block types for contemporary apparel - from fitted bodices to T-shirts, sleeve variations to swimwear - and packed with clear illustrations and step-by-step guidance, Brown and Kelleher guide you through:
- drafting a complete set of plus-size blocks suitable for use with models and clients
- industry plus-size fit forms
- adapting existing designs for plus sizes
- practical skills for respectful measuring, fitting, and working with larger bodies.
Covering every step of the pattern-drafting process, from developing a size chart, to considering mobility and wearing ease, to adapting smaller dress forms for use with plus-sizes, Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear is an essential textbook for all modern fashion and apparel students.
Online resources available for download:
- Instructor resources, including class presentation slides
- Sample size charts, blank size chart templates, and ease chart
- Instructions for calculating required measurements for block drafting section
- Standard measurements used in block drafting
- A collection of plus size croquis in different sizes and poses
Reviews / Votes
This is a book the sewing community has been waiting for ... It offers clear and usable advice for every step of developing garments, whether you're a home sewist, fashion design student, or a designer/manufacturer. * Threads * The authors present a ground-breaking approach to industry sizing and fit. Beginning with an analysis of how large bodies differ in balance, curvature, and posture from straight bodies, they introduce a simple, direct pattern drafting process for creating pattern blocks. Their lessons on understanding and accepting body variation are valuable for all fashion students and apparel industry practitioners. -- Susan P. Ashdown, Emerita Professor, Cornell University, USA This has the power to shape a new generation of designers who approach fit and fashion with more awareness, acceptance, and kindness for all humans. Nothing like this exists in the market today - it's one of one. -- Katelyn Janosch, Director of Technical Design, AYR, USA This is a pioneering book that fully considers inclusivity and diversity in the pattern cutting and fitting process for many different plus-size fashion garments. It is detailed, accessible and sensitively written, supported by great photographs, figures and tables that provide a solid underpinning for the creation of these styles. -- Dr Kevin Almond, Associate Professor, University of Leeds, UKMore details
Language
English
Place of publication
London
United Kingdom
Publishing group
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Target group
College/higher education
Illustrations
550 color illus
Dimensions
Height: 267 mm
Width: 212 mm
Thickness: 30 mm
Weight
1366 gr
ISBN-13
978-1-350-36017-4 (9781350360174)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Classification
Other editions
Additional editions

Gabby Brown | Leila Kelleher
Plus-size Patternmaking for Womenswear
Inclusive Sizing, Pattern Drafting, and Fitting
E-Book
02/2026
1st Edition
Bloomsbury Visual Arts
€44.49
Available for download

Gabby Brown | Leila Kelleher
Plus-size Patternmaking for Womenswear
Inclusive Sizing, Pattern Drafting, and Fitting
E-Book
02/2026
1st Edition
Bloomsbury Visual Arts
€44.49
Available for download
Persons
Gabby Brown is a US-based technical designer in apparel manufacturing with a background working for major retailers including Abercrombie & Fitch and JCPenney. She currently teaches and works with brands and clients on fitting, construction, patternmaking and block development.
Leila Kelleher is Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Social Justice at Parsons School of Design, USA. She is co-founder of the Size Inclusion in Fashion Lab and A Space, In Between, a Japan-based plus-size luxury brand.
Leila Kelleher is Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Social Justice at Parsons School of Design, USA. She is co-founder of the Size Inclusion in Fashion Lab and A Space, In Between, a Japan-based plus-size luxury brand.
Author
Apparel Consultant and Technical Designer, Star Island XO, LLC
Parsons School of Design, USA
Content
Foreword by Dr. Ben Barry, Dean of Fashion, Parsons School of Design, New York, USA
Part 1: Introduction to the Principles of the Plus Size Experience
1. Understanding the Market
2. Analyzing Bodies
3. Patternmaking Concepts
Part 2: Introduction to Practical Applications
4. Size Charts & Taking Measurements
5. Adapting a Form: Techniques
6. Size Extensions: Best Practices
7. Adaptive Design
8. Running a Fitting
Part 3: Introduction to Blocks
9. Relaxed Woven Bodice
10. Fitted Woven Dress: Bodice & Skirt
11. Fitted Knit Tee Shirt
12. Knit Pullover Hoodie
13. Classic Woven Coat
14. Stretch Woven Trouser
15. Knit Leggings
16. Knit Underwear (Brief)
17. Swim: Maillot
Part 4: Further Understanding
18. Sleeves: Set-In, Raglan, & Grown On
19. Fit Variations: Heights & Figures
Conclusion
Appendices
Appendix 1. Sample Size Measurements & Ease Charts
Appendix 2. Calculation Techniques
Appendix 3. Croquis for Plus Size Bodies
References
Recommended Reading
Part 1: Introduction to the Principles of the Plus Size Experience
1. Understanding the Market
2. Analyzing Bodies
3. Patternmaking Concepts
Part 2: Introduction to Practical Applications
4. Size Charts & Taking Measurements
5. Adapting a Form: Techniques
6. Size Extensions: Best Practices
7. Adaptive Design
8. Running a Fitting
Part 3: Introduction to Blocks
9. Relaxed Woven Bodice
10. Fitted Woven Dress: Bodice & Skirt
11. Fitted Knit Tee Shirt
12. Knit Pullover Hoodie
13. Classic Woven Coat
14. Stretch Woven Trouser
15. Knit Leggings
16. Knit Underwear (Brief)
17. Swim: Maillot
Part 4: Further Understanding
18. Sleeves: Set-In, Raglan, & Grown On
19. Fit Variations: Heights & Figures
Conclusion
Appendices
Appendix 1. Sample Size Measurements & Ease Charts
Appendix 2. Calculation Techniques
Appendix 3. Croquis for Plus Size Bodies
References
Recommended Reading